Easy Bolster with Gathered Ends and Covered Button

Bolsters make great decorative pillows for chairs, sofas and beds.  There's so many different elements that you can add to make them eye catching.  The options are endless.....Contrasting banding, trim, ruffles, shirring, and buttons are just a few.  Today I'm sharing a fairly easy one that looks a little fancy, but really it's one of the easiest to make.

This bolster measures 29" x 9".
What you'll need:  bolster fill (either foam, polyfil or down), 1 1/2 yards of fabric, 1 zipper, 2 buttons, thread, 2 yards of welt cord, tufting needle (or large needle), tufting cord or very strong thread.


To cut the main piece of fabric for this pillow, take the diameter of your pillow x pi, in this case 9x3.14=28 1/4".  This is the circumference.  Add seam and zipper flap allowance of 1 1/2", so 29 1/2" is what it will take to go around the pillow with a zipper.
Since my pillow is 29" long, we will add 1/2" seam allowances.  So my first cut is 30 x 29 1/2".

Our next cuts will be the end pieces.  They are just long rectangle pieces that are gathered up in the center.  Our diameter is 9", divided in half= 4 1/2".Add 1/2" seam allowance and 1" hem allowance(just to be safe)=6" this is the width of our 2 gathered piece cuts.
So we cut 2 pieces at circumference plus 1"= 29 1/2" x 6"

Cut 2 scrap pieces 1 1/8" wide x 4" long.  These will be your zipper stops.
Cut 2 yards worth of bias strips for the covered welt.  You can find the instructions for this here:  http://sew-passionate.blogspot.com/2012/01/easy-bias-strips-and-covered-welt-cord.html

The very first thing I always do when I make a pillow is serge the edges of the fabric that will be sewn along the zipper.  This ensured you will never have frayed edges and string getting caught in your zipper.  So serge the edges that are 30" long.
The first step in constructing this bolster is the zipper.  I use zipper by the yard.  Here's a great source for zipper by the yard.
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You can use a regular zipper and still follow the same directions, it's just a lot easier when you use zipper by the yard.

Step 1.  Zipper
With a 1/2" folded under, stitch a zipper stop to the end of your zipper.  Stitch along both sides of the zipper teeth as close to the zipper teeth as possible.

Lay one of the serged edges of your main pillow piece on top of the zipper aligning the edges.  Stitch along this edge along the zipper teeth stopping short about 5-6" from the other end.

Take your second zipper stop and line it up with the second end, fold 1/2" under and see where you need to cut the extra zipper off.  You want the zipper to lay under the zipper stop by at least 1/2".  Cut excess zipper off.

With 1/2" folded under, lay the zipper stop over the end of the zipper and then align the serged edge and stitch the last 5-6".  Turn it right side facing up and this is what it should look like.

Extend the fabric over the zipper teeth and crease with your fingers.  Stitch with your zipper foot on the left side of the zipper to form the zipper flap.

If using zipper by the yard, separate your zipper slightly and attach the zipper slide.

Stitch the remaining serged edge to the other side of the zipper, as close to the zipper teeth as possible, making sure the zipper flap is pushed out of the way.

Step2.  Welt
  With the raw edges lined up, lay the beginning edge of your welt to the main pillow piece where the zipper is.  Extend the welt 1/2" past the zipper and sew all the way around the end of the bolster, stopping a few inches from the starting point.

Fold the end of your welt 1/2" past the beginning edge and cut like this:

Using your scissors open up a couple inches of the welt seam to expose the welt.

 Fold 1/2' up on the ending edge of the welt and lay the beginning welt edge over it.

Clip the excess exposed welt so that they butt up against each other.

Fold opened welt fabric over the cut edges of the welt cord and stitch the final 2-3 inches.  Repeat on the other end.

Step3.  Bolster Ends
Serge one long edge of each of the bolster end pieces.  Then with right sides together lay the unserged edge over your end with the welt cord folding up 1/2".  Stitch getting as close to the welt as possible without running over it with your needle.

When you've stitched all the way around, simply overlap the ending raw edge over the beginning folded edge.

Repeat this on the other end of your bolster.

Step 4. Gathering Ends
In my original measurements, I allowed for a 1" hem along the serged edge of the end of the bolster.  Insert your bolster fill and check to make sure the strip will join in the middle of the round part when 1" hem is folded under.  If so, press up 1" fold all along this serged edge of the fabric.

Fold and pin the overlapped ends like this:

Using Strong thread and a needle, on the right side of this pressed hem, hand stitch in and out using a running stitch.  Make sure you have a large knot at the end.  Spacing your hand stitches about 1/2" apart, stitch all the way around and pass the beginning by a couple stitches.

Step 5.  Covered Button
Since I used a heavy velvet fabric for my pillow, I decided to use a lighter weight complimentary fabric for my button.  Thick heavy fabrics do not work well for covered buttons.  Lay your button front on a scrap piece of fabric and draw a circle that is 1/2"-5/8" bigger all the way around.  Cut 2 of these circles out of your scraps.

With needle and thread, do a running stitch all around the edge of the circle of fabric just like you did with the end of your bolster.  Again overlap by a few stitches and pull the thread to gather the circle up over your button front.  Keep this thread pulled taught.

Snap the back of your button onto the backside of your button front.

Step 6.  Tufting
If you don't want to bother tufting your pillow ends, you could just hand stitch the buttons on the ends of your bolster.  But I think the ends look way cooler when they are tufted and the buttons recede into the pillow a little.
I use a tufting needle.  Tufting needles can be purchased at most upholstery supply stores and they come in different lengths.  Mine is 18" long.  It should be registered as a lethal weapon because it is sharp!  So I'm always very careful with it and the minute I am done with it, I stick the sharp end into a wine cork.

Tufting needles have a large eye.  Here's a closer picture.

I use tufting cord.  Tufting cord is woven in such a way that once you pull on it to knot it, the twine locks on itself.  You don't have to use tufting cord, but make sure you use a VERY strong thread or cord.

Measure out enough tufting cord to more than double the length of your bolster.  Fold the cord in half and knot the folded end to your first button.

Thread the cut ends of your tufting cord into your tufting needle.  Find the center of your bolster end and poke your threaded needle through the end of your bolster fill.  Push it as far as you can into the pillow without the eye of the needle going through yet.
Now unzip your pillow and using a seam ripper or a small pair of scissors open up a small section of the seam of your fill.  I used a down feather fill, so I had to do this very gently to ensure a bazillion feathers did not end up all over.

Carefully stick your hand in this opening and find your tufting needle and feed it the remaining length of your pillow, making sure you have the needle exiting the center of the end.  Once you have your needle through to the other side, close your fill back up before attaching the last button.  Hand stitch the seam closed where you opened it up.  Zip your pillow back up and then attach your last button with a double knot pulling the buttons in as far as you like.  You might want to knot it a third time if you are not using tufting thread just to make sure this knot never comes lose.  Clip the tufting thread ends and you're done!

Not so hard huh?!

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Kick Pleat Valances

Kick Pleat valances are a great way to top any window.  They've got crisp clean lines that can be played down with a simple solid fabric or spiced up with a bright colored patterned fabric.  Custom details can also be added to give them character.  Here's a few I've made for clients in the past.

This is an example of a basic, clean line kick pleat valance.  The pattern of the fabric almost acts like a solid and tops these basic drapery panels to give them a finished look.



Now here's an example of how fabric and contrast banding can make these anything but boring! 

Then there's this one that is completely customized with a scallop in the middle and a fan fold ruffle adorning the bottom and top edges. 

Here's the one I'm featuring in todays tutorial.

Isn't she adorable!  The fabric alone gives it a lot of interest, but then Mother of Pearl buttons were added to the top of each kick pleat to add a little whimsy.

There's a few things to consider when making a kick pleat valance.  After measuring the width of your window you must decide on the sections.  Odd number is always best.  You also have to decide on the length of the valance.  You may not want it to obstruct your view out the window, in which case it can be hung several inches above the window.  Once you have figured out the number of sections you want, you have to decide on fabric and motifs.  This ones motif did not fit within the space of the sections however, the pattern worked regardless.  If you choose a large patterned fabric to use on a small valance, just keep in mind what part and how much of the motif is actually going to show. 

Since there's so much going on behind the scenes of a kick pleat valance and we don't want there to be shading when sunlight shines through, we always use blackout lining on these.  In fact as a rule most valance styles are always lined with black out lining.  The good thing is kick pleat valances require minimal amounts of lining.

The finished size of this valance is 26" wide x 13" long.  We decided to have 3 sections and 4 pleats and it will be mounted on a 1x2 (which nets a size of 1 1/2")

What you'll need:  Fabric, blackout lining, thread, board and buttons.

Lets do the math to figure the length of our cuts.

I always make sure the face fabric wraps around the bottom towards the back of the valance by 2", so our cuts will include that.

1 1/2"(depth of board)+13"(finished length of valance)+2"(towards the back)+ 1/2"(seam allowance)=17" (length of each cut)

If you've never worked with blackout lining, it has a rubber-like coating that blocks out all light.  That rubberized coating also makes it kind of thick and it doesn't crease very well when pressed.  It also doesn't unravel or Frey like regular fabrics do.  Because of these factors, I construct things a little differently when I'm using blackout lining. 

To figure the length of the blackout lining cuts, here's the math.

1 1/2"(board depth)+ 13"(finished length of valance)=14 1/2" 

There's no seam allowance added into the blackout lining math because of the way I construct this valance.  The lining gets butted up against the inside of the hem fold line of the face fabric.  I'll try to explain in this illustration.

Now that we have the length of our cuts determined, we have to figure the width of each cut.  The width of the cuts will be completely determined by the number of sections in the valance and the fabric used for the valance.

My valance has 3 sections with 2 kick pleats separating the 3 sections and 2 half kick pleats at the ends of the board.  Take the finished width of your valance (26) divided by number of sections(3)= width of sections.  Since mine came out uneven, my sections will be 8 3/4, 8 1/2, 8 3/4.  The 1/4" difference will never be noticeable.

Our kick pleats are going to be 3" deep.  You can make them as small as 2" if necessary, but I wouldn't go any smaller than that because you need that fullness in there for the valance to lay smoothly.

If you've chosen a solid fabric for your valance your cut widths will be much easier to figure.  If you've chosen a patterned fabric then you will have to figure your cuts around centering your motif in the center of each section.

Lets look at the workings of the valance first to help you understand what factors come into play.

More than likely you will have to use more than one cut of fabric for this valance.  You will definitely have more than one cut if you are using a fabric with a large motif to be centered in the middle of each section.  So lets look at where the seams are to be placed.

My Motifs landed on the fabric in such a way that I had to cut a piece for each section.  My cut for the first section on the left side of the valance was 26 1/4" wide x 17" long.  Here's how I got my cut size.

1/2"(seam allow)+1 1/2"(return for board depth)+3"+3"(half a kick pleat)+8 3/4"(left front section)+3"+3"+3"(3/4 of my kick pleat at which point I need to make a seam)+1/2"(seam allow)=26 1/4".  Here's visual if you are having a hard time understanding the cut.  It also shows where your motif should be centered.  Please excuse my drawing, I'm not very good at Microsoft Paint yet and there is a lot to explain in this drawing.  I tried to make it as simple as possible, but as I said, there is a lot to explain in this one drawing.  You may need to take a few minutes to study the drawing to understand the full concept.  Once you have the "ah ha" moment, you will "get" it and it will make understanding the rest of the cuts much easier.

Whew!  That was a lot of information at once.  I usually draw all my cuts out on the fabric before I begin to cut just in case there needs to be any adjustments because of fabric shortage.  Now lets figure our 2nd cut, the center cut.

 Notice that my first cut was positioned on the right hand area of my fabric and the middle section is positioned in the middle area of my fabric.  This is where my motifs happened to land on my fabric.  The third cut had to be cut out of the same motif as section one except that motif was too close to the selvage edge of the fabric to be cut there.  Thank goodness that same motif was also positioned on the left side of my fabric.  Keep these kinds of things in mind when planning your valance.

You may have more then 3 sections in your valance, in other words you might have several center sections.  They will probably end up being the same width as the one we figured as our middle section, so you will just repeat that cut as many times as necessary to get all your sections cut.  I usually number mine starting from the left side of the valance so I don't confuse them when it's time to sew them together.  You don't want to accidentally sew them out of order.

You have officially finished the hardest part of this valance!  Give yourself a pat on the back if you are still with me here!
Now we need to cut our Blackout lining.  Here's how we figure the length to cut our Blackout lining.  13"(finished length of valance)+1 1/2"(board allowance)=14 1/2"
Our widths are going to be the same as our face fabric except in reverse order.  So I cut 3 pieces.  The first one 26 1/4" wide, the second one 21 1/2" wide and the third one 20 1/4".  The difference is I numbered them from right to left this time.  This ensures our seams will be in those kick pleats and that the Blackout lining seams will not land in the same place as the seams for our face fabric.  If they all landed in the same place, this would cause a lot of bulk, we want to spread out our bulk.

Finally we can get to the sewing part of this tutorial.  Stitch your face pieces together in the order they are numbered starting from the left side.  Stitch your Blackout lining pieces together in the order they are numbered starting from the right side.
Press all these seams open.  Try to get the Blackout lining seams as flat as possible.

With the right side of your Blackout lining facing up, draw a line along the bottom edge 1 1/2" from the bottom.  Use a pencil to do this.

With right sides together, pin the bottom edge of your valance to this line.

Stitch along this bottom edge 1/2" from the raw edge of the valance face.

Open the two pieces up and lay them face down on your pressing area and press the Blackout bottom edge towards the fabric.

With it laying just like it shown in the picture above, bring the top of the face fabric up to meet the top of the Blackout lining.

Press this bottom edge really well, this is the bottom edge of your valance.  Put pins along the top edge of the valance starting about 12" in from the sides.  Place the pins parallel with the top edge about 1" from the top edge.

Now we have to sew the side seams.  We need to fold the right sides together along the sides folding it over itself where we made that pressed crease.  It might be hard to get this to lay flat for sewing, so if you need to take a few pins out of the top to get it to lay flat, then do so.

Here's another picture of that step.  Pin both side edges.

Stitch along the sides using 1/2" seam allowance.

Clip the bottom corners as shown below.

Now turn those corners right side out again and give them a good pressing.  Re pin the top 1" from the top with pins parallel.  Serge this top edge or zig zag along the top edge to keep the layers together and to finish off that top edge.  It's OK if the 2 layers are not lined up exactly with each other.  Just serge along the outer of the 2 layers.

Our sewing is now complete!  Minimal sewing huh?! :-)
Now we need to cut our board.  I used a 1x2 which nets an actual size of 1 1/2"x3/4".  I get mine at my local Hardware store.  They don't have to be anything fancy because they are going to be covered with fabric.  But you DO want to try to get one that is as straight as possible.  Notice the really warped one in the right hand side of this picture.  Something like that would make our valance hang uneven.

My finished valance width is 26" so I cit my board to 26".

Cut a piece of scrap fabric.  I'm using a piece of regular white lining.  I don't recommend using the Blackout lining for this because it is so thick that it will add too much bulk.  Use a piece of your face fabric if necessary.  Cut your scrap piece 4" longer than your board and 5 1/2" wide.  Lay your board in the center of this scrap and pull one long edge up and over the board and staple all along the long edge approx. every 4" or so.

Now pull the other long edge up and over that and staple in the same manner.

Trim the excess lining from the fabric that is extending past your board like this.

Push the sides in slightly with your fingers and wrap this fabric up over your board and staple.  Trim off excess after stapling.

Before we can mount the valance to the board we must do 2 things: 1. draw our lines where the pleats will land.  2.  Pin in our pleats.

First draw a line with a pencil 1 1/2" in from each side of the board.  Now measure over from the edge of the board and draw a line where your first pleat will land.  In my case my first section is 8 3/4", so my line is drawn 8 3/4" from the side of the board.  My second section is 8 1/2" wide, so I drew a line 8 1/2" from the first sections line.  The remaining area should equal 8 3/4" for my third section.

Using a hem gauge, I pin in the pleats at the top of the valance.  Once I have them all pinned in correctly, I give the pleats a good pressing with my iron.  With your hem gauge, measure over 1 1/2" from each side and place a pin there to mark it.  Then form 3" deep half pleat.

Measure over from there the width of your section (in my case 8 3/4") and form a complete 3" pleat.  Pin.  Continue until you have all your pleats pinned in.  Lay your board above your valance and you should see the pleats lining up with the lines on your board.  There should also be 1 1/2" extending beyond each side of your board.  This is the return.  Wrap the return around to the sides of your board and staple them to the pencil line that is 1 1/2" from the edge.  Staple them diagonally like shown in this picture.

Pivot the rest of your valance to the front edge and bring it to the top of the board, it will stack on top of the return we already stapled to the board.

Staple at every edge of a pleat and 3-4" apart every where else.  Pull the pins out after you staple.  If you decided to add buttons to the top of your valance, this is when you would add them. 
Tada!!!  Your valance is done! :-)  Use a couple "L" brackets to hang it above your window.  Hang the "L" brackets first, then set your valance on top of the "L" brackets and screw from underside through the holes in the bracket right into the wood.  Step back and take a look at your finished valance.  Give yourself a HUGE pat on the back because I know these directions got a little complicated at times and you stuck with me and finished the valance.
As I said at the beginning of this tutorial, all kinds of Custom details can be added to Kick Pleat valances.  I'll do some tutorials on those another day....so follow me and stay tuned! Pin It